Exquisite Travel Adventures Worldwide LTD

In Latvia, there is a dish so beloved, so deeply embedded in the national identity, that it is served at Christmas. It is presented at weddings, at celebrations, at moments of great cultural significance. It is grey peas with bacon. The peas are grey. The bacon is fried. This is the national dish of Latvia, and Latvia is correct.

Ingredients

• 500g dried grey peas (or dried marrowfat peas if unavailable)
• 200g smoked bacon or speck, diced
• 1 large onion, finely chopped
• Salt and black pepper

Method

Soak the grey peas in cold water overnight — at least 8 hours. Drain and rinse. Cover with fresh cold water in a large pot, bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 1.5 to 2 hours until completely tender. Salt generously toward the end of cooking. Drain.

While the peas finish cooking, fry the diced bacon in a pan over medium heat until the fat renders and the pieces begin to crisp. Add the onion and cook until soft and golden, about 10 minutes. Season with black pepper.

Combine the drained peas with the bacon and onion mixture. Stir well. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve warm, ideally in a large communal bowl, ideally in December, ideally in Latvia.

They are grey. They taste wonderful. Do not let the color discourage you — this is not a dish that relies on appearances. It relies on bacon, which has never let anyone down.